Feeding Dogs Raw Bones

Many dog owners are curious about feeding dogs raw bones, an age-old practice that sparks both enthusiasm and concern. Proponents praise raw bones for their nutritional value and natural teeth-cleaning ability, while others worry about safety issues like choking or tooth damage. Dogs instinctively love to chew, and tossing a bone to a happy pup seems natural – but is it safe bones for dogs or a recipe for disaster? In this article, we take an evidence-based look at raw bones for dogs, addressing common questions about nutrition, dental health, bone types for different breeds, and crucial safety guidelines. By understanding both the benefits and risks, you can decide if raw bone chewing fits into your dog's routine in a safe, healthy way. Let’s dig in (pun intended) to the facts about feeding raw bones.

Why Dogs Are Biologically Suited to Bones

Dogs may be far removed from wolves in our homes, but biologically they retain many ancestral traits that make them well-suited to chewing bones. Evolutionary and Anatomical Evidence: Domestic dogs evolved from wolves that consumed entire prey animals – meat, organs, and bones included. Wild canines and felines have for eons obtained essential minerals by consuming the bones of their prey. In fact, a wolf’s diet in the wild often includes crushing and swallowing smaller bones for nutrition.

Dentition Built for Chewing: Your dog's teeth and jaws are a product of this carnivorous heritage. Unlike human molars which are flat for grinding plants, dogs have sharp carnassial teeth and pointed premolars designed to shear meat and crack through bone. Their strong jaw muscles and tooth structure allow them to gnaw and crush raw bones efficiently as part of a natural diet. Behaviorally, chewing is a normal, instinctual activity for dogs – it relieves stress and mimics the act of "dissecting" prey. Providing appropriate chew items like raw bones can satisfy this natural urge in a constructive way, preventing boredom and associated behavioral issues.

Digestive Adaptations: Dogs’ digestive systems are also adapted to handle raw bone material. Canine stomach acid is extremely acidic (pH ~1–2), capable of dissolving bone tissue before it reaches the intestines. This strong stomach acidity (much stronger than that of humans or herbivores) helps break down raw bones and kill off many bacteria, making dogs inherently more equipped to handle raw animal parts. Moreover, anatomically there is virtually no functional difference between the digestive tract of a wolf and that of a domestic dog – our dogs still have the short, simple gastrointestinal tract of a carnivore built to process meat and bones. All these factors suggest that feeding dogs raw bones is consistent with their biological design as carnivorous scavengers.

Of course, domestication and modern feeding practices mean not every dog handles bones the same way (we’ll discuss breed and individual differences later). But fundamentally, from their teeth to their tummy, our canine companions retain the tools to chew and digest raw bones when it’s done safely. Understanding this natural compatibility provides context for the potential benefits of raw bones – and why so many dogs thoroughly enjoy a good bone to chew on.

Nutritional Benefits of Raw Bones

Raw bones are often called “nature’s multivitamin” for carnivores. What nutrients do raw bones provide? The most obvious are minerals: raw bones are rich in calcium and phosphorus in a naturally balanced ratio, along with magnesium and trace minerals. These minerals are crucial for maintaining healthy bones and teeth in your dog. In fact, raw feeders rely on raw meaty bones to supply calcium in a natural form instead of using synthetic supplements. When dogs consume raw bones (especially the softer, edible types like poultry bones), they are effectively getting a bioavailable calcium supplement that also exercises their jaws.

Beyond minerals, raw bones offer other nutrients and health benefits:

• Bone Marrow: The fatty marrow inside large bones is calorie-dense and contains fat-soluble vitamins (A, D, K) as well as copper and iron which support blood cell formation. Gnawing out the marrow can provide a nutritious boost and is often a favorite part of the bone for many dogs. (Do note, however, that marrow is high in fat – more on this in the safety section regarding moderation.)

• Collagen and Cartilage: The gristle, cartilage, and connective tissue attached to bones are rich in collagen, glucosamine, chondroitin, and other natural compounds that support joint health. When your dog chews through joints or chicken feet/neck bones, they are getting a dose of natural glucosamine and chondroitin, which may help lubricate joints and reduce inflammation. Raw feeders often consider raw bones (with cartilage) as part of a holistic approach to arthritis prevention and joint support.

• Protein and Fats: While bones are mostly mineral, any meat scraps or connective tissue on a raw bone do contribute some protein and healthy fats to the diet. For example, raw poultry bones usually have bits of muscle meat and skin attached, providing essential amino acids and fatty acids. Marrow fat can be a source of energy and essential fatty acids (poultry bones generally have more fat content than beef or lamb bones).

• Vitamins and Enzymes: Raw bones that include marrow and organ remnants can supply vitamins such as B12 and K2, and chewing raw meaty bones has been suggested to provide enzymes that benefit oral health (raw meat contains enzymes that may inhibit plaque formation). While bones alone are not a complete food, they can contribute to a more species-appropriate nutrition profile when included in a balanced diet (for more on balanced diets, see our guide on species-appropriate dog nutrition).

It’s worth noting that raw bones for dogs primarily excel as a source of minerals and dental benefits (which we’ll cover next). They should not be relied upon to provide all nutrients – your dog still needs muscle meats, organs, and possibly veggies or supplements for a fully balanced diet. In fact, one veterinary nutrition article pointed out that beyond calcium and phosphorus, whole raw bones don’t contribute a wide variety of vitamins or other nutrients. So think of raw bones as an enriching supplement to a complete diet, not a meal replacement (except for edible bones that make up part of a formulated raw diet).

Used wisely, raw bones can be a natural nutritional boost – providing calcium for strong bones, phosphorus for energy metabolism, collagen for joints, and fats for a shiny coat – all in a tasty package dogs love. Next, we’ll see how those same bones can double as nature’s toothbrush for your pup.

Dental Health & Raw Bones

One of the biggest touted benefits of feeding raw bones is improved dental health. If you’ve ever noticed your dog’s teeth looking whiter after gnawing on a bone, it’s not your imagination – raw bones can act like edible toothbrushes. Chewing action on raw bone surfaces mechanically scrapes away plaque and tartar from the teeth. Over time, this can lead to cleaner teeth, healthier gums, and fresher breath, reducing the risk of periodontal disease.

Scientific research supports these claims. In a controlled study, dogs given raw beef bones to chew experienced a dramatic reduction in dental calculus (tartar) buildup. Over about 2 weeks, calculus coverage on teeth dropped by 70–87% in the raw bone-chewing dogs – a remarkable improvement in oral cleanliness. Notably, the researchers observed no complications during that study: none of the dogs suffered tooth fractures, gum injuries, or digestive issues while chewing raw bones. This suggests that, under the right conditions, raw bones can be an effective and safe method for cleaning teeth.

Another piece of evidence comes from an epidemiological survey of 479 dogs, which found that dogs who regularly ate raw bones had significantly better periodontal health than those that didn’t. In this study (conducted by a veterinary clinic), the frequency of bone feeding correlated with lower rates of dental disease. While this was a correlation (and bone-chewing owners might also do other dental care), it aligns with the idea that gnawing on bones helps keep teeth clean. Interestingly, the same survey noted that certain breed groups (Terriers, Gundogs, Working dogs) tended to have fewer dental issues compared to Toy breeds, possibly because larger dogs chew more vigorously or are more likely to be given raw bones. Small breeds often have crowded teeth and higher risk of dental problems, so they may benefit greatly from safe chewing activities to reduce plaque.

How exactly do bones clean teeth? When a dog chews a raw bone, the hard but slightly abrasive surface of the bone scrapes against the tooth enamel, chipping away at tartar (calcified plaque). Meanwhile, stringy connective tissues on the bone can act like dental floss, getting between teeth to some extent. Chewing also stimulates saliva flow. Saliva contains enzymes and has a cleansing effect, which can help wash away bacteria. All of this mimics what would happen in the wild when a canine chews through an animal carcass – teeth get a regular scouring.

Beyond tartar removal, chewing raw bones exercises the jaw and gum tissues. This can improve blood flow to the gums and strengthen the supporting structures of the teeth. Some owners report that their dogs have much better breath and less reddened gums when given raw bones routinely to chew. There’s even evidence that chewing raw bones can reduce oral bacteria: one study noted that raw bone chews reduced oral bacteria by ~79% in dogs, contributing to fresher breath.

Mental and Behavioral Benefits: An often overlooked advantage of giving your dog a raw bone is the mental enrichment it provides. Chewing is a natural stress-reliever for dogs – it releases endorphins and can keep a high-energy dog calm and occupied. A bored dog is more likely to develop behavioral problems (chewing furniture, excessive licking, etc.). A raw bone (chosen appropriately) offers a safe outlet for that energy. As long as you supervise (to ensure safety), letting your dog work on a bone for a while can provide a great mental workout. It’s like a puzzle treat; the dog has to figure out how to gnaw off the tasty bits. This can tire them out in a satisfying way. In puppies, appropriate chewing items can help relieve the discomfort of teething and save your shoes from destruction!

Important: While raw bones can aid dental health, they are not a complete substitute for other dental care. Not every dog will chew thoroughly enough to clean every tooth, especially the carnassials way at the back. Regular veterinary dental check-ups and perhaps occasional professional cleanings are still important, as is monitoring your dog’s mouth for any fractured teeth or gum issues. Daily tooth brushing is the gold standard for preventing plaque, and bones are considered a supplement to that regimen. That said, brushing a dog’s teeth daily is a struggle for many owners (only an estimated ~1% of owners stick to daily brushing), so chewing raw bones a few times a week can be a helpful part of keeping those canines (the teeth, that is) shiny and healthy.

In summary, raw bones can improve your dog’s dental hygiene by reducing tartar, massaging gums, and promoting fresher breath, all while keeping them happily occupied. Next, we’ll explore the different types of raw bones and how to choose the right one for your dog.

Types of Raw Bones and Their Uses

Not all bones are created equal when it comes to feeding your dog. In the context of raw feeding, we generally categorize bones into two groups: edible bones and recreational bones. Understanding the difference will help you choose the right bone for the right purpose.

Edible Bones vs. Recreational Bones: Edible bones are the soft, pliable bones that dogs can chew up and fully consume as part of their diet. These bones usually come from smaller animals (like poultry or rabbits) and are non-weight-bearing (e.g., poultry ribs, necks, and wings). Edible raw bones are nutrient-rich – they provide calcium, phosphorus, and other nutrients and can make up to about 10% of a balanced raw diet (more on diet integration later). Because they are relatively soft, edible bones generally do not splinter into sharp shards; dogs can crush and digest them fairly easily. Examples include chicken wings, chicken or turkey necks, poultry backs and carcasses, and rabbit ribs.

Recreational bones, on the other hand, are larger, harder bones that are less likely to be fully eaten (at least not quickly) but serve mainly as a long-lasting chew or “recreation.” These often come from larger livestock animals and are weight-bearing bones (which makes them quite dense). Common recreational bones are beef femur bones (the classic “marrow bone”), beef knuckles, or big ham bones. Dogs will gnaw off the meat, fat, and cartilage from these bones and enjoy the marrow, but usually should not consume the entire bone – it’s more of a chew toy. Recreational bones provide mental stimulation and teeth-cleaning action, but because they are so hard, they carry a higher risk of tooth damage if a dog chews aggressively. We’ll talk about mitigating that risk in the safety section. In short, edible bones = food, recreational bones = chew toy (with some nutritional bonus).

Now, let’s look at various animal sources of raw bones and how they fit into these categories:

• Poultry Bones (Chicken, Duck, Turkey): Poultry bones are generally soft and edible. Chicken bones – such as chicken wings, necks, and backs – are flexible enough for most dogs to crush and eat completely. These make excellent starter bones for puppies or small to medium dogs. Duck bones are slightly denser than chicken but still usually edible; for example, duck necks or duck wings can be great for medium dogs. Turkey bones are larger; turkey necks are a favorite raw meaty bone for large dogs (they’re big and meaty, providing a nice chew and meal in one). Poultry bones are high in calcium and also have a good amount of cartilage (for joint nutrients). Even tiny dogs and cats can handle chicken wings or necks, whereas bigger dogs might crunch through a whole chicken carcass (sometimes sold as “chicken frames” or “backs”). Uses: Edible; good for delivering calcium and cleaning teeth. Always feed poultry bones raw – cooked chicken bones, in particular, are dangerous (they become brittle and splinter).

• Beef Bones: Bones from cattle are very hard and dense (a cow is a big heavy animal, so its weight-bearing bones are massive). Beef bones are typically recreational bones. Common examples are marrow bones (cut sections of cow femur) and knuckle bones (the joints). Dogs love them – they’re large, heavy, and often sold with marrow and bits of meat attached. The marrow is extremely rich and fatty, which dogs find delicious (though it should be consumed in moderation). Beef rib bones are somewhat less hard than leg bones; some large dogs can eat soft beef rib ends, but generally, beef is so dense that pieces can break teeth. Uses: Recreation and dental exercise. Offer to large dogs who like to chew, but supervise closely – once the dog cleans off the edible parts, you may want to take the bone away to prevent them from incessantly gnawing the hard bone itself. (Tip: Some owners let dogs chew a knuckle bone for 15-30 minutes at a time, then refrigerate it for another day, to limit risk of tooth wear.) Never give cooked beef bones; they can splinter and have caused many emergencies.

• Lamb and Goat Bones: Bones from lamb, mutton, or goats are medium-sized and somewhat less dense than beef. Many raw feeders like them because they are smaller and often edible in parts. For example, lamb ribs and lamb neck bones have a fair amount of cartilage and softer bone that a medium or large dog can consume. Lamb shanks (leg bones) are harder – more of a recreational chew and can be risky for tooth fractures. Goat bones are similar to lamb’s in size. Uses: Lamb ribs, breastbone, or necks can serve as edible raw meaty bones (great calcium sources) for medium and large dogs. They also tend to be very high in fat (as lamb is fatty), so introduce slowly. Lamb bones are a good option for dogs that can’t have beef (e.g., allergies) but need a durable chew. As always, raw only – never cooked.

• Pork Bones: Pork bones (from pigs) can vary. Young pig bones (e.g., pork ribs, pork neck bones) are somewhat softer and many dogs can eat them, but adult pork bones (like a big ham hock) get quite dense. Rib bones from pork are popular raw meaty bones – but note, they are high in fat. In fact, pork ribs or shoulder bones with lots of fat can cause pancreatitis in dogs prone to it, so trim off excess fat or avoid if your dog has a sensitive stomach. Uses: Small to medium dogs might get edible pork riblets; large dogs might enjoy a raw pork femur recreationally (though risk similar to beef bone for teeth). As with others, cooked pork bones are a no-go (they splinter easily).

• Venison & Game (Deer, Elk, etc.): Wild game bones depend on the animal’s size and age. Venison (deer) bones from a young deer or small species (like roe deer) might be thin enough for a large dog to chew up. However, adult deer or elk weight-bearing bones are extremely hard – in fact, wolves in the wild that resort to crunching a lot of bones show increased tooth fracture rates over time. So for our dogs, large deer or elk bones should be treated as recreational chews, if used at all, and only for very powerful chewers – and even then there’s risk. Uses: Venison ribs or spine pieces could be edible for large dogs (raw deer ribs are similar to lamb ribs in density). Antlers (often sold as dog chews) are actually deer bone material too – and veterinary dentists generally caution against antlers because they are so hard they commonly crack teeth. So, while naturally shed antlers might seem like a “natural” bone chew, they fall in the same category as cooked or dried bones: too hard for most dogs. Stick to raw, relatively fresh bone material to be safe.

• Rabbit Bones: Whole prey like rabbits or small rodents have very light, hollow bones. Rabbit bones are entirely edible for dogs – even a medium-sized dog can crunch up a whole raw rabbit (often fed as part of raw diets). These bones are soft enough that they rarely cause issues, and they’re a nutritious option (rabbit is lean meat). Uses: Great edible bone source, even for small dogs or cats. Often ground rabbit (with bones) is used in raw diets for pets with food sensitivities.

• Fish Bones: Raw fish bones are generally small and flexible (think of the bones in a raw sardine – soft enough to bend). Dogs in some cultures are given whole raw fish to eat. Small oily fish like sardines or smelt can be fed whole; their tiny bones provide calcium and omega-3 fatty acids. Larger fish (like raw salmon heads or frames) are sometimes fed to big dogs – they will chew up the head and bones, getting the omega-3-rich brain matter too. Uses: Nutritional supplement (adds calcium and healthy fats). One caution with raw fish is parasites and bacteria; certain fish can carry parasites (e.g., salmon can have a fluke that causes “salmon poisoning” in dogs). Always know the source and consider freezing fish for at least a week to kill parasites before feeding. Never feed cooked fish bones (they pose the same splinter hazard).

As you can see, there is a wide variety of raw bones for dogs, each with its own role. Smaller, softer bones serve as edible snacks or meal components, while bigger, harder bones are more for chewing pleasure and dental benefits. Matching the bone type to your dog’s size and chewing style is key – which leads us to the next section.

Raw Bones by Breed and Life Stage

Every dog is an individual, and factors like breed, size, age, and chewing temperament influence how to safely feed raw bones. Here we break down considerations for different types of dogs:

Toy and Small Breeds: Small dogs (e.g. Chihuahuas, Yorkshire Terriers, Shih Tzus) have smaller mouths and often delicate jaw structures. They may not be able to handle large or very hard bones. For these dogs, it’s best to stick with small, edible bones such as chicken wing tips, chicken necks, or tiny oxtail pieces. These softer bones allow small dogs to chew and ingest bone safely without risking tooth damage. Interestingly, small breeds are also notorious for dental problems – they have crowded teeth and often faster tartar buildup. Giving appropriately sized raw bones can greatly help their oral hygiene. A Yorkshire Terrier gnawing on a chicken neck, for instance, can scrape off plaque from those hard-to-brush teeth. Safety tip: Always hold the bone for your small dog at first or choose a piece large enough that they must gnaw off bits (to prevent them from trying to swallow it whole). For example, feeding a whole raw chicken wing (drumette + wingette) to a small dog can encourage thorough chewing because it’s too big to gulp. Toy breeds can also benefit from ground raw bone in their diet if they aren’t strong enough chewers – you get the nutrition without the choke risk.

Medium Breeds: Medium-sized dogs (Border Collies, Bulldogs, etc.) can handle a wider range of bones. They can chew on chicken quarters, turkey necks, lamb ribs, and pork neck bones fairly well. Recreational bones like beef knuckles can be given with close supervision. One thing to consider is jaw strength and face shape: breeds like Bulldogs or Boxers (brachycephalic, meaning flat-faced) might have a tougher time gripping large bones and may not chew as efficiently. They may do better with bones that have some “handle,” like a meaty rib or a bone with joints they can hold in their paws. Always observe how your medium dog manages a new type of bone and adjust accordingly.

Large and Giant Breeds: Big dogs (German Shepherds, Labradors, Rottweilers, Great Danes, etc.) usually have the jaw power to tackle larger raw bones – but they also can apply too much force, which is where the risk of tooth fractures comes in. Powerful chewers can crack a cow femur in half – and potentially crack a molar in the process. For these breeds, avoid very hard weight-bearing bones from large livestock (no raw femur shafts or weight-bearing leg bones of cow/bison). Paradoxically, large dogs are often safer with larger but softer bones. For example, a whole raw turkey carcass or a rack of lamb ribs provides lots of chewing satisfaction but with bones that have some give. A seasoned raw-fed large dog might consume an entire turkey drumstick (raw) safely, bone and all – whereas the same dog might chip a tooth trying to crush a much harder beef marrow bone. As veterinarian Dr. Peter Dobias advises, “Large and strong dogs should not be given marrow bones or thick-walled bones.” Those are best reserved for lighter chewers. Instead, give big dogs large edible bones (so they chew thoroughly rather than gulp) or big recreational bones that are on the softer side (e.g., a big beef rib with meat – they’ll strip the bone clean rather than shatter it). Size matters: Always choose bones that are too big to swallow whole. A Golden Retriever, for instance, could safely work on a raw beef rib or lamb neck; but a small lamb rib might be gulped and cause choking. When in doubt, go larger and supervise.

Breeds with Strong Chewing Drives: Some breeds (and individual dogs) are voracious chewers – think Labrador Retrievers, Boxers, Pit Bulls, German Shepherds. These dogs love to chew and often will persistently gnaw anything given to them. For heavy chewers, you must be extra careful with bone selection. They may try to crunch through bone quickly, increasing the chance of splinters or broken teeth. A heavy chewer might be better off with large raw knuckle bones (lots of cartilage and tissue to occupy them, and the bone ends are softer) rather than rock-hard weight-bearing middles. They will gnaw off all the cartilage and marrow, which is great for teeth cleaning and enrichment, but you may need to remove the bare bone after that so they don’t start cracking the dense part. Another trick for heavy chewers is to use frozen raw bones – the cold can slow down the chewing intensity a bit and also numbs the gums (feels good to them). However, be aware that frozen bones are harder than thawed, so it could increase tooth risk if the dog goes hard at it. Use your judgment based on your dog’s chewing style.

Puppies: Can you give puppies raw bones? The answer is generally yes, with some precautions. Puppies have that strong urge to chew (especially when teething), and providing safe raw bones can keep them from chewing inappropriate items. Very young puppies (under 3-4 months) have their deciduous (baby) teeth, which are sharper but more fragile than adult teeth. During this stage, stick to very soft bones like chicken wing tips or necks – or even raw chicken feet, which are mostly cartilage. These will not stress their baby teeth too much. As puppies get their permanent teeth (around 4-6 months of age), chewing bones can actually help those adult teeth settle in and grow strong. Start small and gradually introduce bigger bones as your puppy grows. Always supervise puppies closely, as they are still learning how to chew properly. They might get over-excited and try to swallow things they shouldn’t. Teaching your puppy early to chew nicely on a raw bone while you hold it can instill good habits. One idea is to hold one end of a raw bone while your puppy chews the other, so you can control how much they ingest at once. Avoid very hard bones until the pup is full-grown and the teeth have finished calcifying – it’s possible (though not common) for a puppy to chip a tooth on a super hard item. Also, because puppies have smaller mouths and less experience, make sure the bone isn’t so large it becomes frustrating. A pup might do better with a chicken thigh or rib (soft bone encased in meat) rather than a giant marrow bone they can barely dent.

Senior Dogs: Older dogs can certainly enjoy raw bones, but consider their dental condition and overall health. Many seniors have some level of dental wear or gum recession. If your senior dog has worn-down teeth or previous dental work, you’ll want to stick to softer bones exclusively – like perhaps ground bone mixed in food for nutrition, or very soft poultry bones for chewing. A senior who’s new to raw bones might need a slow introduction, as their jaw strength and digestive efficiency may not be what it used to be. Additionally, watch out for tooth wear in seniors: years of chewing (or even aggressive rawhide chewing or tennis balls) might have blunted their teeth. They could be more prone to tooth damage from hard bones now. For an aging dog, you might consider alternatives like dehydrated rabbit ears or other softer chew treats if they can’t handle raw bones anymore. But if your senior has good dental health, there’s no reason they can’t have the occasional raw bone treat – in fact, it can keep those last teeth cleaner and provide joy in their golden years. Just choose something like a pliable chicken carcass or turkey neck instead of a weight-bearing beef bone.

Individual Differences: Remember, these are general guidelines. Within a breed or size category, individual dogs vary. Always observe your dog. If they tend to gulp food, you must give bones that force them to slow down (perhaps attached to large pieces of meat). If they are methodical chewers, they might do fine with a wider variety. If your dog has a known history of pancreatitis or a sensitive stomach, you’ll need to avoid high-fat bones (regardless of breed). And any dog with a compromised immune system or other health issues should consult a vet before introducing raw foods like bones.

In summary, know your dog. A tiny Yorkie isn’t going to tackle a beef rib the way a Mastiff would. Tailor the bone selection to your dog’s size, jaw strength, and chewing habits. When in doubt, err on the side of caution with a softer bone and always supervise. Next, we’ll cover safety guidelines applicable to all dogs, big or small.

Safety Guidelines for Feeding Raw Bones

Safety is paramount when offering raw bones to your dog. While raw bones are generally safer than cooked bones (since they’re less prone to splintering), there are still risks if bones are given improperly. Follow these guidelines to ensure bone-chewing is a safe and positive experience:

1. Always Supervise Chew Time: Never leave your dog unattended with a bone. Most bone-related accidents (choking, swallowing a large piece, etc.) happen when owners aren’t watching. Supervision allows you to step in if the bone splinters, if your dog is trying to gulp a piece that’s too big, or if they get overly aggressive in chewing. Make bone time a special monitored activity – perhaps let your dog chew in the same room as you so you can keep an eye out. If you need to leave or even briefly look away, take the bone away and return it later.

2. Choose the Right Type and Size of Bone: Match the bone to your dog. As discussed, softer edible bones (like poultry or rabbit) for smaller or less aggressive chewers; larger robust bones (like knuckles or big ribs) for bigger dogs – but avoid extremely hard bones for any dog that might break their teeth. A good rule of thumb from veterinary dentists: the bone (or chew) should be bendable or have some “give” and you should be able to make a slight indent in it with your fingernail. If it’s too hard to dent or if it feels like stone, it’s too hard for your dog’s teeth. Also, size matters: the bone should be large enough that your dog cannot possibly swallow it whole. Dogs have been known to swallow surprisingly big objects, so when in doubt, go bigger. For example, give a giant breed a whole rack of raw ribs rather than a single rib bone. He’ll chew off what he needs but won’t be able to gulp the rack.

3. Introduce Bones Gradually: If your dog is new to raw bones, start slowly. Give a short supervised chew session (maybe 5–10 minutes) the first few times to let their digestive system adjust. Some dogs may experience a bit of loose stool if they aren’t used to the richness of marrow or the high calcium content. Allowing a gradual introduction helps prevent GI upset. Over time, you can increase chew time as you see they handle it well. Also, start with easy bones (e.g. chicken neck) before progressing to larger ones.

4. Prevent Over-consumption: Do not allow your dog to consume excessive bone material in one sitting. Ingesting too much bone can lead to constipation or intestinal blockage. You’ll know it if you see very chalky, hard stools – that’s a sign of too much bone. A good guideline is that edible bone content should make up no more than about 10% of your dog’s overall diet (by weight). If you feed raw bones daily, adjust meal portions so the bone is included in that percentage. For recreational bones, once your dog has stripped all the meat, fat, and marrow off, take the bone away. There’s little nutritional value in letting them grind the actual bone down to nothing, and the risk of tooth damage or constipation increases when they consume large chunks of hard bone. Many experienced dog owners use the rule: “Chew it, don’t eat it” for recreational bones – meaning the dog should enjoy gnawing and cleaning the bone, but not necessarily ingest the entire thing.

5. Mind the Fat and Marrow: Rich fatty marrow or attached fat/gristle can cause pancreatitis or diarrhea in some dogs. If your dog has a history of pancreatitis or is on a low-fat diet, choose meaty bones without a large marrow component (for example, a lean venison bone instead of a fatty beef marrow bone). You can also scoop out some of the marrow from a beef bone before giving it, to reduce the fat load. Similarly, trim off excessive fat or skin. The goal is to let your dog enjoy chewing without ingesting a week’s worth of fat in one go. Symptoms of pancreatitis include vomiting and abdominal pain – if you ever notice these after a bone session, contact your vet.

6. Hygiene and Handling: Raw bones can carry bacteria like Salmonella or E. coli on the surfaces. While dogs are more resistant to these pathogens, there’s still a risk for us humans (and for dogs too if they are immunocompromised). Treat raw bones like you would raw meat in your kitchen. Store bones frozen or refrigerated until use. Thaw properly (never in the sun or outdoors where flies can lay eggs). After your dog is done chewing, discard any heavily chewed-on bone remnants (don’t leave them to rot or be found by another pet or a child). Wash your hands thoroughly after handling raw bones, and consider cleaning the area where your dog chewed (there will be saliva and bone juices). If your dog chews bones on your carpet or couch, you might want to use a mat or towel to keep things clean. Additionally, if you have young children, prevent them from picking up or playing with the raw bone – not only due to bacteria but also because dogs may guard their bones.

7. Supervise for Specific Issues: Watch for specific potential problems as your dog chews:

   • Choking or Gagging: If your dog tries to swallow a piece that’s too large, they might start gagging or coughing. If this happens, intervene calmly. Often holding their head up or gently removing the piece (if it’s safe to do so) can help. Know the dog Heimlich maneuver in case of a true choking emergency – this is rare with raw bones (more common with cooked bone splinters or toys), but it’s good to be prepared.

   • Bone Stuck on Jaw or Teeth: Sometimes round bones (like a section of bone with a hole, e.g., marrow bone) can get stuck on a dog’s lower jaw, or a piece can wedge between teeth. If you notice your dog pawing at their mouth excessively or acting distressed, check for a stuck piece. This often requires vet assistance to cut the bone off (yet another reason to choose big pieces – a small circular bone is the typical culprit for a jaw “ring”).

   • Aggressive Chewing or Cracking Sounds: If you hear cracking sounds and see your dog splintering a bone forcefully, it’s a sign that bone might be too hard or your dog is too determined. Take it away and substitute with a safer option. You don’t want them shearing off very hard pieces.

   • Bleeding from Gums: A little minor gum bleeding can happen if they chew a lot (just like sometimes when flossing human teeth). But if you see significant blood or a cut, end the session. Check their mouth for any lacerations. Hard bones can sometimes cause cuts on the gums or tongue.

8. Discard Old Bones: Don’t let a raw bone sit out for days. Apart from bacterial growth, an old dried-out bone becomes brittle and more likely to splinter. Once a bone has been gnawed to the point of dryness or has been out for more than a day, toss it. Always give fresh (thawed) raw bones, not bones that have dried or been cooked.

9. Know When to Seek Vet Help: If despite precautions something goes wrong – say your dog swallowed a big chunk of bone and now is gagging, or your dog seems to have a tooth fracture (e.g., they start avoiding chewing on one side, or you notice a slab of a tooth missing), call your veterinarian. Signs of gastrointestinal obstruction or perforation include vomiting, lack of appetite, bloated stomach, constipation or inability to pass stool, and lethargy. While these severe outcomes are uncommon with raw bones (much more so with cooked bones), you should be aware of the warning signs. Better to be safe and get an X-ray if you suspect a bone fragment is causing an issue inside.

By following these safety guidelines, you can greatly minimize the risks and let your dog enjoy raw bones as a healthy treat. Remember, thousands of dogs chew on raw bones daily with no issues – but it only takes one mishap to create a serious problem. Your role is to choose wisely, supervise, and know your dog’s limits. Next, we will compare cooked and raw bones (spoiler: never feed cooked bones!), and then cover the risks of raw bones and how to mitigate them.

Cooked Bones vs. Raw Bones

A critical rule in feeding bones is: Never feed cooked bones to dogs. Cooked bones (whether boiled, baked, roasted, or smoked) are dangerous compared to raw bones. The cooking process dries out the bone, making it brittle and prone to splintering into sharp fragments. These jagged shards can do severe damage internally. Let’s break down why cooked bones are problematic and why raw bones are the only safe option for chewing:

• Splintering Risk: When bones are cooked, their collagen and moisture content is reduced, so instead of bending, they snap. If a dog chews a cooked bone (like a leftover T-bone steak bone or a cooked chicken drumstick), the bone can shatter into needle-like splinters. These splinters can cause choking, lacerations in the mouth and esophagus, or even pierce the stomach/intestine walls. For instance, cooked chicken bones are notorious for splintering – most vets have seen cases of dogs with punctured intestines or peritonitis (a life-threatening abdominal infection) from a cooked chicken bone. Raw bones, by contrast, tend to crush or compress when chewed rather than shatter. A raw chicken bone is soft enough to be chewed and digested; a cooked one is like glass. The U.S. FDA has even issued warnings to pet owners to avoid giving any “bone treats” that are cooked or processed, due to numerous injury reports.

• Reduced Nutritional Value: Cooking a bone also depletes nutrients. The fatty marrow’s vitamins get reduced, and minerals may become less available. So even aside from safety, a cooked bone isn’t providing the same nutritional benefit. (Not that nutrition is the main issue here – safety is.)

• Cooked vs. Raw – Study Evidence: You might wonder, are raw bones really that much safer? Consider this: A study that fed dogs raw beef bones daily for several weeks reported no dental fractures or internal injuries occurring. By contrast, when veterinary researchers looked at dogs chewing sterilized (autoclaved) bones (which is essentially a form of cooking), they noted a higher incidence of tooth fractures and gum injuries. Cooked bones simply don’t “give” under pressure – dogs can crack teeth on them as if biting a rock. The American Veterinary Dental College explicitly warns that dried or cooked bones are too hard and can lead to broken teeth.

• Specific Dangers of Certain Cooked Bones:

  • Poultry: Cooked chicken, turkey, duck bones – extremely hazardous. They splinter into sharp slivers that have been known to lodge in the throat or intestines. Even small fragments can cause internal bleeding. Fried chicken wings, cooked chicken necks, etc., should all be strictly off-limits.

  • Pork and Rib Bones: Ribs (especially pork ribs) after cooking become brittle. They tend to break into sharp pieces that can get stuck in the esophagus or cause blockages lower down. Spare rib bones left over from dinner should never go to the dog.

  • Steak and Chop Bones: These often have sharp edges once cooked (imagine T-bone steak leftovers or lamb chop bones). Dogs may try to swallow them and get them stuck partway down. Also, cooked knuckle bones (like leftover ham bone) can break teeth and also crumble in dangerous ways.

• The “Bone Treats” Warning: In 2017, the FDA specifically cautioned against store-bought “bone treats” – these are bones that have been processed (smoked or baked, often with flavoring) and packaged for dogs. They sound safe by marketing, but the FDA received dozens of reports of illness or death. Issues included intestinal blockages, choking, mouth injuries, vomiting, diarrhea, and even deaths in dogs that consumed bone treats. Essentially, these processed bones had many of the same risks as home-cooked bones. So, avoid things like smoked ham bones, baked pork femurs, etc. sold in pet stores. Stick to raw, unprocessed bones (preferably from a reliable source like a butcher or raw pet food supplier).

In short, raw bones are relatively safe (with the precautions we’ve discussed), whereas cooked bones are unsafe. If you wouldn’t eat the bone yourself because it’s become dried out and hard, don’t give it to your dog either. A useful analogy: raw bones are like firm cartilage – they can be chewed and digested; cooked bones are like brittle plastic – they can splinter and hurt your dog.

If your dog accidentally gets a cooked bone (say they raid the trash and pull out chicken wings), monitor them closely. Watch for any signs of distress, and if you see vomiting, gagging, bloody stool, lack of appetite or abnormal behavior, get to a vet immediately. In many cases, dogs pass small cooked bone fragments fine, but it’s a risk not worth taking. Prevention (keeping those bones out of reach) is key.

To summarize, only feed raw, never cooked. When raw, bones maintain a pliable texture and can be safely chewed and digested under supervision. When cooked, bones turn into tiny time-bombs of sharp fragments. No matter how much your dog begs for that BBQ rib, it’s not worth the emergency surgery that could result. Instead, have a raw bone on hand as a safe alternative treat.

Risks of Feeding Raw Bones (and How to Reduce Them)

We’ve touched on some of the risks in earlier sections, but let’s compile them clearly. Feeding raw bones does carry a few inherent risks, although much lower than feeding cooked bones. Being aware of these risks allows us to take steps to minimize them:

• Choking Hazard: A dog might try to swallow a piece of bone that is too large or gets lodged in the airway. This is especially a concern if the bone splinters or breaks into chunks. Choking can be life-threatening – a bone stuck in the trachea can block breathing. Even pieces lodged in the esophagus (food pipe) are dangerous and very uncomfortable. Large, round bones can also get trapped around the lower jaw or roof of the mouth. Prevention: Always give appropriately sized bones (too big to swallow whole), and supervise so you can intervene. Avoid giving small bones to large dogs. If your dog has a habit of gulping, stick to bones attached to large cuts of meat (so they must gnaw rather than gulp bits). You can also use a vice grip or bone holder for dogs that tend to swallow too fast – it’s a tool to hold one end of the bone, forcing the dog to chew more slowly.

• Intestinal Blockage: If a dog swallows large bone fragments without adequately chewing, those pieces might not pass through the GI tract. They can cause an obstruction in the stomach or intestines. A bone obstruction often requires surgical removal. Also, accumulated bone fragments in the colon can cause severe constipation, as the fragments cement together (sometimes called “concrete poop”). Prevention: Limit the amount of bone ingested; ensure bones given are easily chewed up (edible bones) and always supervise so you can take away small broken pieces. If your dog regularly consumes edible bones, monitor their stool – hard, chalky stool indicates too much bone. Adjust diet (add fiber or reduce bone) to keep things moving. Make sure fresh water is always available as well, since hydration helps avoid blockages.

• Mouth or Throat Injuries: Sharp edges of bone can cut a dog’s gums, tongue, or throat. A shard could puncture the soft palate or get stuck between teeth. These injuries are painful and can lead to infections or abscesses. Prevention: Again, proper bone selection (non-splintery raw bones) is key. If a bone develops a sharp edge during chewing, take it away. You can also file down sharp edges with a clean rasp if you notice them, though most people will just discard the bone at that point. Observing your dog’s chewing technique helps – if they are a “chomper” who likes to crack bone pieces off, stick to softer bones.

• Broken Teeth: This is one of the more common risks, particularly with hard weight-bearing bones. A dog that bites down wrong on a hard bone can fracture a premolar or molar. Veterinarians often see slab fractures of the upper fourth premolar (the big carnassial tooth) in heavy chewers given hard bones or antlers. These fractures can expose the tooth pulp and lead to pain and infection, often necessitating a root canal or extraction. Prevention: Choose softer bones or those with joints (which have cartilage) for serious chewers. Avoid giving very hard bones like femur sections to dogs known to have powerful jaws. Apply the “fingernail test” (can you dent it?) as mentioned. If your dog is just gnawing off meat and not trying to crack the bone itself, they’re less likely to break a tooth – so supervise and gauge their behavior. Note: Certain breeds with stronger bites (e.g., bully breeds) and middle-aged dogs (whose teeth have endured years of chewing) may be at higher risk. If in doubt, err on the side of caution.

• Bacterial Infection (Dog or Human): Raw bones, especially if not handled properly, can harbor bacteria like Salmonella, E. coli, Listeria, etc. Dogs often can ingest these without falling ill (thanks to that strong stomach acid and short GI transit time). However, some dogs can get sick from high bacterial loads – causing vomiting or diarrhea. More commonly, the risk is to people in the household. A dog gnawing a raw bone can spread juices on the floor, then kids touch it, etc. Humans (particularly children, elderly, or immunocompromised individuals) can contract serious foodborne illnesses from these germs. Prevention: Hygiene is critical – as detailed in the safety guidelines, clean everything and limit where the dog can chew (maybe have them chew on a wipeable surface or outdoors). Also, sourcing bones from human-grade meat suppliers and using them fresh (or frozen quickly) reduces bacterial load. Some owners lightly blanch raw bones (dip in boiling water for a few seconds) to kill surface bacteria – though this is generally not necessary if you manage hygiene, and blanching can harden the exterior slightly. If your dog is immunocompromised or very young/old, consult a vet; they might advise against raw feeding due to infection risk. And if anyone in your home has a weakened immune system, you might reconsider raw bones (or only allow chewing in controlled, sanitized conditions).

• Parasites: Raw bones from certain animals can carry parasites (though the risk is more with raw meat or organs). For example, wild game bones could have tapeworm cysts or other parasites. Pork can carry Trichinella (pork tapeworm), though rare in developed countries’ pork due to farming practices. Fish bones can carry parasites like flukes. Prevention: Use bones from healthy sources – typically farm-raised meat from reputable suppliers. When feeding wild game or fish, freeze them at -20°C (-4°F) for at least 3 days (7 days to be extra safe) to kill parasites. Most commercial raw pet food bones have been frozen sufficiently.

• Contamination of Home/Other Pets: Dogs might stash a raw bone somewhere (like behind the couch) for later – which can rot and cause a gross surprise! Or a bone left in the yard could attract insects or wildlife. Multi-dog households need to be careful to avoid fights over bones (resource guarding can be intense with high-value items like bones). Prevention: Only allow chewing when you can dispose of leftovers. Separate dogs if needed (in crates or different rooms) to prevent fights. And dispose of old bones promptly.

Now, after hearing all these risks, you might wonder if it’s worth it. It can sound scary, but keep in mind: when proper precautions are taken, the incidence of problems is quite low. Many veterinarians who oppose bones have often seen the worst-case scenarios (because that’s when owners rush to the vet). But millions of dogs worldwide enjoy raw bones regularly without issue. One veterinary study even noted that raw bones used as oral care did not cause the expected fractures or obstructions in their trial, and concluded that raw bones can be a regular part of home dental care – with supervision and in combination with routine vet check-ups.

Tips to Reduce Risks: To recap some of the preventive measures integrated with the risks:

• Supervise and take away risky pieces.

• Choose the right bones (size, type, hardness).

• Limit how much your dog consumes at once.

• Keep everything clean.

• Know your dog’s chewing habits and health status.

If you follow those principles, you greatly tilt the odds in favor of safe, enjoyable bone chewing sessions and minimize the dangers.

Combining Bones with Holistic Supports

Raw bones can be a powerful addition to your dog’s health regimen, but they work even better in synergy with other holistic health practices. Here are a few ways to combine raw bone feeding with complementary supports for optimal results:

1. Dental Care Combo: While raw bones help clean teeth, some dogs may need extra help, or you might want to ensure absolutely sparkling dental health. Consider adding a seaweed-based dental supplement to your dog’s routine. A specific brown algae, Ascophyllum nodosum, has been proven to reduce plaque and tartar when added to dogs’ diets. It works systemically: the compounds from the seaweed come out in the dog’s saliva and prevent bacteria from sticking to teeth. You can find this in products like Canident powder or dental treats. Using this alongside bone chewing attacks plaque from two angles – chemical and mechanical. Additionally, you can use herbal dental rinses or gels on days the dog isn’t chewing a bone. There are pet-safe oral gels with ingredients like aloe, grapefruit seed extract, or green tea that can help kill oral bacteria. Brushing even 1-2 times a week with dog toothpaste, combined with bones on other days, can keep even a senior dog’s mouth in great shape. Remember, raw bones are not a cure-all, so combining them with other dog dental care steps yields the best results.

2. Gut Health and Raw Bones: A concern some have with raw bones is bacteria or the richness potentially upsetting the digestive system. Support your dog’s gut health to mitigate this. Using a quality probiotic supplement can help your dog’s digestive tract handle raw foods more effectively by maintaining a healthy microbiome. Some owners give probiotics (or fermented foods like a spoon of plain kefir or yogurt) especially on raw bone days to aid digestion. Additionally, incorporating digestive enzymes or a bit of pureed pumpkin (for fiber) can ensure smooth bowel movements even when bone content is higher. If your dog is on a primarily kibble diet and only occasionally gets raw bones, a probiotic is a nice safeguard to prevent diarrhea or constipation. A healthy gut biome will also help protect the dog from any bad bacteria they might ingest. In short, a focus on canine gut health complements raw feeding nicely.

3. Joint Health Regimen: We discussed how the cartilage in raw bones provides natural glucosamine and chondroitin, which support joint health. To further help a dog with arthritis or a large breed puppy who will have joint stress, combine those raw bone nutrients with additional joint support. For example, you can supplement with a glucosamine/chondroitin supplement or green-lipped mussel extract for higher doses of those joint-protective compounds. Omega-3 fatty acids (like fish oil) are another great addition – they are anti-inflammatory and can lubricate joints. By giving raw bones (e.g. chicken frames or turkey necks rich in cartilage) plus a daily joint supplement and fish oil, you create a holistic joint care plan. This is especially beneficial for older dogs or breeds prone to orthopedic issues (like Labs, German Shepherds, etc.). Bones keep them moving and chewing, while the supplements ease their joints from within. Check out our guide on natural joint support for dogs for more ideas – it’s all about combining therapies.

4. Whole Prey and Mental Enrichment: Some advanced raw feeders do “whole prey” feeding – for example, giving a whole raw rabbit or fish occasionally. This can cover bones, organs, and meat all in one, closer to what a wild diet would be. While not everyone’s cup of tea, it does provide the ultimate enrichment for the dog, who gets to engage in their natural feeding behavior fully. If you go this route, ensure the source is safe and be prepared for a bit of mess! You might do this outdoors. The holistic benefit here is mental stimulation at its peak. It’s like a puzzle, chew toy, and meal wrapped in one natural package.

5. Balance with Other Natural Chews: Perhaps your dog can’t have raw bones often (due to health or convenience reasons). You can still satisfy their chew urge by alternating between raw bones and other natural chews. For example, on some days provide a raw bone, on others maybe a frozen Kong toy filled with pureed banana and yogurt, or a dehydrated chew like a tendon or fish skin. This rotation keeps things interesting and covers different bases. If using non-raw chews, always choose those that are easily digestible (e.g., beef tendons, bully sticks) and avoid those that are overly hard (like antlers or hard nylon toys, as those carry the same tooth fracture risk as bones). The idea is a holistic approach to chewing – a variety of textures and benefits.

6. Nutritional Completeness: If raw bones are part of a homemade diet, make sure the overall diet is complete. Bones provide calcium and phosphorus but not all other vitamins. Balance raw bones with muscle meats, organs, and perhaps some fruits/veggies if you follow a BARF diet model. You might add supplements like kelp or alfalfa for trace minerals, or a general multivitamin for dogs on a home-prepared diet. Bones should be integrated thoughtfully: e.g., if you feed raw feeding diet at home, about 10% of that diet being bone will fulfill mineral needs, but don’t go much over or under that without adjusting other nutrients. If you are feeding mostly kibble and just giving raw bones as treats, there’s no need to modify the kibble diet heavily, but you might reduce the kibble meal size a bit on bone days to account for the calories and calcium in the bone.

In essence, raw bones are one tool in a holistic toolkit. By combining them with other natural health strategies – from seaweed dental supplements to probiotics and joint support – you amplify the benefits and cover any gaps. This multi-faceted approach mirrors how wild canines maintain health (through diverse food sources and activities) and how we can provide domestic dogs the best of both worlds: modern care and natural nutrition.

Integrating Raw Bones into a Balanced Diet

Whether you feed a commercial diet or a DIY raw diet, raw bones can be incorporated in a healthy, balanced way. Here are some tips on how to do it:

In Raw or Home-Prepared Diets: If you already feed a homemade raw diet (or are planning to start one), you’ll know that raw meaty bones are a key component. Typically, raw diet frameworks call for around 10% of the diet to be raw bone (for an adult dog). This 10% bone guideline ensures sufficient calcium without causing excess. For example, in an 80/10/10 prey-model raw diet (80% meat, 10% bone, 10% organ), you might feed something like chicken quarters or turkey necks as the bone portion of the weekly diet. Make sure the bones you include are edible bones (soft enough to be fully eaten). Good choices are chicken thighs, chicken or turkey necks, chicken wings, pork ribs, etc., which provide both meat and bone. If a cut is too bony (like a bare bone), balance it by adding extra meat.

It’s often easiest to calculate the bone content of raw items: e.g., a chicken neck is about 36% bone and 64% meat. If you feed 200 grams of chicken necks, that’s ~72g of bone. Over a week, you’d adjust quantities so that the total bone is around 10% of the total food weight for dogs. Tools and tables can help determine how much bone is in a certain cut. Remember, “10% bone” refers to the actual bone material, not 10% of meals being a bone item. Some raw feeders include up to 15% bone for convenience, but going much higher can risk constipation and mineral imbalance. Growing puppies often need slightly more calcium (up to 15% bone) to support growth, but this should be done carefully to avoid excess.

If You Feed Kibble or Canned Diets: You can still give raw bones as a supplement. Many kibble-fed dogs get huge benefits from gnawing a raw bone a few times a week. The key is to treat it as a treat or add-on, and adjust the diet mildly if needed. For instance, if you give your dog a large raw bone on Saturday, you might reduce their kibble portion that day by a little, especially if they consumed a lot of the bone. This prevents overfeeding and weight gain. However, because kibble is a complete diet, you don’t want to replace too much of it with unbalanced extras. A general approach: limit edible raw bones to no more than ~10% of the week’s calories for a kibble-fed dog, or ensure over the week they still get their required nutrition from their regular food. One bone every few days usually is fine and won’t unbalance things significantly, as long as most meals are complete.

Always monitor your dog’s stool and condition when introducing bones to a kibble-fed dog – their system might take a little time to adjust. Some owners report slightly firmer stools (which is usually okay; raw bone tends to firm up poop, often a positive for anal gland health). Just ensure the dog isn’t becoming uncomfortably constipated. If they are, scale back the bone frequency or quantity.

Scheduling and Frequency: You might wonder how often to give raw bones. This can depend on your goals:

• For dental maintenance, offering a raw bone 2–3 times a week can keep tartar at bay in many dogs. Some people even do a “raw bone daily chew” routine (like 15 minutes a day of bone chewing instead of tooth brushing). Just be cautious with daily bones that you’re not giving too much bone content and that the dog’s stools remain normal.

• For nutritional purposes (calcium), if on a raw diet, bones are part of daily rations in small amounts or every other day in larger pieces. Some raw feeders alternate days (meaty no-bone meal one day, bone-in meal next day) to average out the bone intake. That’s fine as long as over a week it balances.

• Timing: It’s often a good idea to feed bones after a meal or as a separate “meal” rather than on a very empty stomach. A bit of food in the stomach can prevent any potential irritation from bone shards and helps the digestive juices get flowing. For example, you could give half your dog’s normal meal portion, then give the bone as a “dessert” chew. The meal ensures they aren’t super hungry (less gulping behavior) and kickstarts digestion. After the bone session, monitor that all bone bits either got chewed well or remove remains.

• Bone Broth and Ground Bone Alternatives: If your dog cannot chew whole bones (senior with bad teeth, or you’re just too worried about choking), you can still provide the benefits of bones in the diet by using ground bone or bone broth. Finely ground raw bone (included in some commercial raw foods) will supply calcium without the choking risk. You can grind raw chicken wings through a heavy-duty grinder at home and mix it into food. Bone broth, made by simmering bones for a long time (which actually does cook them down into a digestible form, but you discard the cooked bone chunks and only give the liquid), can provide minerals and collagen, though not as much calcium as raw bone. These are options if chewing isn’t feasible, though they won’t help with teeth cleaning.

Watch the Calories: Raw bones with a lot of marrow and fat can be quite calorie-dense. A big marrow bone can contain a few hundred calories from fat. If your dog is on a diet or needs weight management, account for this. You might choose bones that are lean (like a raw knucklebone that’s been trimmed of excess fat, or a primarily bone+cartilage piece like a beef patella with less fat). And reduce other treats/food on bone days to avoid weight gain. Conversely, if you have a skinny dog who needs to gain, letting them have the marrow is a bonus!

In summary, integrate raw bones thoughtfully: use them to meet calcium needs in homemade diets, or as a supplemental treat/exercise for kibble-fed dogs. Pay attention to proportions (about 10% bone in raw diets is ideal). Adjust feeding amounts to keep your dog in good body condition. When done right, raw bones can fit seamlessly into your dog’s menu – providing nutrition, enjoyment, and health benefits that boost the overall quality of their diet.

Feeding dogs raw bones can be a highly rewarding practice that taps into your dog’s natural instincts and provides tangible health benefits. From an evolutionary standpoint, dogs are well-equipped to handle raw bones – and the nutritional boost (calcium, phosphorus, healthy fats, and joint-friendly cartilage) and dental cleaning action they provide can significantly enhance your dog’s well-being. Many owners find that raw bones keep their dogs’ teeth clean and minds happy in ways few other chew treats can match.

However, it’s crucial to approach raw bones with knowledge and caution. This comprehensive look at feeding dogs raw bones highlights the importance of choosing appropriate bone types for your dog’s size and life stage, supervising every chewing session, and strictly avoiding cooked bones which pose serious dangers. By adhering to safety guidelines – such as selecting raw bones that are safe for dogs, matching bone size to your dog, and monitoring their chewing – you can minimize risks like choking or tooth fractures. Every dog is different, so always take into account breed tendencies (e.g., small vs. large breed needs) and your individual dog’s chewing behavior.

In weighing the pros and cons, raw bones emerge as a beneficial addition to many dogs’ routines when used responsibly. They offer natural nutrients and help satisfy primal urges, but they are not without hazards, so owner vigilance is key. Ultimately, the decision comes down to understanding your own dog and implementing the best practices we’ve outlined. If you do choose to give raw bones, start slowly, stay safe, and watch your furry friend enjoy one of life’s simple canine pleasures. A happy dog gnawing contentedly on a raw bone is a sight that harks back to their wild ancestry – and with the right approach, it can be a part of modern, healthy dog ownership.

FAQs

Are raw bones safe for all dogs?
Raw bones are generally safer than cooked bones for dogs, but they are not 100% risk-free. Most healthy adult dogs can safely enjoy raw bones if you choose the right type (soft, digestible bones) and supervise them. That said, raw bones may not be suitable for every dog. Dogs with certain medical conditions (like a history of pancreatitis, digestive issues, or immune problems) might be at risk from the bacteria or rich marrow in raw bones – always consult your vet if your dog has special health needs. Also, very small dogs or dogs with poor dental health might struggle with even raw bones; for them, alternatives like ground bone or other dental chews might be better. In summary, for the average healthy dog, raw bones can be safe when fed properly (raw only, size-appropriate, supervised). Always introduce gradually to ensure your dog’s tummy handles it, and observe carefully the first few times. If your dog shows any signs of trouble (like gulping large pieces or gastrointestinal upset), you may need to adjust your approach or reconsider bones.

What kinds of raw bones are best for dogs?
The best raw bones for dogs are typically the ones that are large enough not to be swallowed whole, relatively soft, and either completely edible or safe to chew on without splintering. For most dogs, raw poultry bones (chicken, turkey, duck) are excellent because they are soft and fully consumable – e.g., chicken wings, chicken necks, and turkey necks are favorites. Raw lamb or pork ribs and lamb neck bones are also good edible options for medium to large dogs, being softer than beef bones. If you’re looking for longer-lasting “recreational” chew bones, raw beef knuckle bones (the joint end of the femur) are a decent choice since they have lots of cartilage and are a bit less hard than leg shaft bones – just be sure to take them away once the yummy stuff is gone. Avoid weight-bearing beef leg bones (marrow bones) for most dogs, unless your dog is a very gentle chewer, as these are extremely hard and can crack teeth. In all cases, choose raw bones with some meat or connective tissue attached (better chewing and less hard surface exposed). Remember: match the bone to your dog’s size – e.g., a beef rib for a Lab, but maybe a chicken wing for a Dachshund. And never feed cooked versions of any of these. If in doubt, start with something like a raw chicken thigh or turkey neck, which has a good combo of meat and bone and see how your dog does.

Why are cooked bones bad for dogs?
Cooked bones are dangerous because cooking changes their structure – it makes bones brittle and prone to splintering into sharp pieces. When a dog chews a cooked bone (whether it’s a steak bone, a cooked chicken bone, or a store-bought smoked bone treat), those hard, sharp fragments can break off and cause serious injuries. They can choke a dog, cut the inside of the mouth or throat, or even puncture the stomach or intestines, leading to life-threatening internal damage. Cooked bones also tend to break teeth more easily due to their hardness. In contrast, raw bones are softer and tend to crush or wear down rather than splinter. Another issue is that many cooked bones (like “bone treats”) have caused incidents of intestinal blockages and even deaths, as reported by the FDA. Bottom line: Never give your dog cooked bones – no matter the type. If you have leftover bones from cooking, dispose of them in a secure trash can. If you want to offer a safe bone, it must be raw (and size-appropriate). The adage “give a dog a bone” should really come with a caveat: only if it’s raw and only under supervision!

Can I give raw bones to my puppy?
Yes, puppies can have raw bones, but you need to be selective and careful. Raw bones can actually be great for puppies – they help soothe teething pain and teach pups to chew appropriately. For very young puppies (8–16 weeks), choose very soft, small bones such as chicken necks or wingtips. You can even start with raw chicken wings that have been slightly crushed with a mallet to make it easier. Always supervise closely to ensure the puppy is gnawing and not trying to swallow chunks whole. As your puppy grows and gets their adult teeth (by ~5–6 months), you can graduate to slightly larger bones like chicken quarters or turkey necks for larger breed puppies. Puppies have strong appetites and may get overzealous – so it’s extra important to supervise and possibly hold the bone for them at first. Also, introduce only one new bone at a time and see how their digestive system handles it. It’s wise to wait until a puppy has been on raw food (if you are raw feeding) for a little bit so their system is accustomed to it before giving a big bone to chew. One more tip: puppies benefit from raw bones for mental stimulation and jaw development, but don’t let them consume too much bone, which could lead to constipation. Moderation is key. Overall, if done right, giving raw bones to puppies can set them up for a lifetime of healthy chewing habits and contribute to clean teeth early on.

What warning signs indicate a problem after my dog ate a bone?
After your dog chews or eats a raw bone, keep an eye on them for the next day or two. Warning signs of a complication include:

• Gagging, coughing, or regurgitating unproductively (could indicate a piece stuck in the esophagus or throat).

• Drooling excessively or pawing at the mouth (possible bone fragment stuck in teeth or mouth injury).

• Refusal to eat or painful behavior when swallowing (could mean a scratch in the throat or something lodged).

• Vomiting or retching repeatedly after the bone session (may signal an obstruction or gastrointestinal irritation).

• Abdominal bloating or discomfort – if your dog’s belly seems swollen or they act like their stomach hurts (restlessness, panting, or a “praying” position), that could be a blockage or, rarely, bloat (the risk of bloat can increase if a dog exercises heavily after eating bones, so always allow rest after a bone meal).

• Constipation or straining without results, especially if you see bone fragments in very hard stool or notice your dog hasn’t had a normal bowel movement in over a day. Hard, chalky stool that causes straining indicates too much bone intake and possibly an impaction.

• Bloody diarrhea or bloody stool – a few bright red streaks on stool could just be from minor anal irritation (hard stool can do that), but any significant amount of blood or tarry black stool is a red flag for internal injury.

• Lethargy, loss of appetite, fever – these systemic signs could indicate peritonitis (an infection from a perforation) or another serious issue internally.

• Broken tooth – after a chewing session, check your dog’s mouth (if they allow). Look for any large slabs missing from teeth or a tooth that looks split. Dogs can be very stoic, so you might not know a tooth cracked until infection sets in later. If you suspect a tooth injury (your dog avoids chewing or you see something), get a vet dental exam.
  If you notice any of these signs, it’s best to contact your veterinarian immediately. Let them know your dog was chewing on a bone and describe the symptoms. They may advise an immediate visit for X-rays to see if any pieces are stuck. Quick intervention can often prevent a minor issue from becoming major. Fortunately, most dogs never experience these problems with raw bones, but it’s wise to be vigilant. When caught early, issues like a bone stuck in the esophagus or a beginning intestinal blockage can often be resolved endoscopically or with less invasive treatments, versus waiting until it’s a severe emergency. As the saying goes, “Hope for the best, prepare for the worst.” By being aware of warning signs, you’ll ensure your dog gets timely care if something ever goes wrong.

References

1. Marx, F.R., et al. (2016). Raw beef bones as chewing items to reduce dental calculus in Beagle dogs. Australian Veterinary Journal, 94(1-2), 18–23. 

2. Pinto, C.F.D., et al. (2020). Evaluation of teeth injuries in Beagle dogs caused by autoclaved beef bones used as a chewing item to remove dental calculus. PLOS ONE, 15(2): e0228146. 

3. Gawor, J., et al. (2018). Effects of edible treats containing Ascophyllum nodosum on the oral health of dogs: A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study. Frontiers in Veterinary Science, 5: 168. 

4. American Veterinary Dental College (AVDC). (n.d.). AVDC Position on Chew Toys and Bones – “...cow hooves, dried natural bones or hard nylon products... are too hard and do not mimic the effect of a dog tearing meat off a carcass.”

5. Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine – Collins, B. (2017). FDA “bone treat” warning: Cornell veterinarian explains how you can protect your dog. – Highlights the risks of bone treats and recommends only bendable chew items.

6. PetMD – Boyers, L. (2025). Can Dogs Eat Bones? – Advises that it is not recommended to give dogs any bones (raw or cooked) due to risks like choking, GI perforation, and dental fractures, and notes raw bones carry risk of foodborne illness.

7. VCA Animal Hospitals – Why Bones Are Not Safe for Dogs (2020). – Lists dangers of bones, including broken teeth, mouth injuries, esophageal blockage, intestinal perforation, and bacterial contamination.

8. AKC Staff. (2024). Can Dogs Eat Bones? Be Careful Before Giving Your Pup a Bone. American Kennel Club (AKC.org). – A balanced overview: acknowledges raw bones can provide minerals and dental benefits but warns that cooked bones can shatter and cause damage and that high-fat bones (like pork ribs) can trigger pancreatitis.

9. Spanner, A. (2018). Why Feed Bones To Dogs: The Evidence. Walkerville Vet (Blog). – An informal study showing dogs fed raw bones had better periodontal scores, suggesting a dental benefit, and noting small breeds had more dental issues than larger breeds.

10. U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA). (2017). FDA warns of risks from “Bone Treats” after reports of illness and death in dogs. – Reported ~68 cases of dogs suffering from bone treat products (which are cooked bones), with issues ranging from GI blockages to bleeding. Emphasizes avoiding all processed bone treats.